by Molly McHugh, Editor/Publisher of South America Living.       About the Author

Disclaimer: I am a huge fan of living outside of your home country as a family, whether it be for a month, year or lifetime… and have been promoting it (indirectly and directly) for more than 9 years.

It’s the new rage; quitting the job, selling all belongings and saying goodbye to family and friends for an extended time… to somewhere, anywhere, other than where you were. And why not take the kids along while we’re at it? Honey…

Evidence of the raging new trend are the equal numbers of new travel blogs acounting for the crazy move that is either in the planning stage, ready for take-off or at full-throttle… and aren’t you jealous! Don’t be.

South America Living Co-owner at a Younger Age Visiting Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. "Take This Stupid Hat Off Of Me!"

Living abroad with children is brilliant at times but much of the time not a whole heck different than what your life was back home. Routines are routines. Needing to make money, school (or unschool) the kids, address health concerns, make friends, deal with folks you do not like, etc. does not go away. And in many cases can make life much more difficult and not all that enjoyable.

Don’t get me (or all those other courageous families out there loving life abroad) wrong… when it is good it is great. There is nothing better than the sense of self accomplishment from forging into the unknown and coming out victorious, experiencing life like you knew you never would have if you had stayed in your comfort zone of ‘conventional’ living. And giving your child that experience, sharing the adventure together.

But those moments are similar to the wonderful moments – and memories – made back home; few and far in-between. Every day abroad is not paradise, every day abroad is simply another day, wherever you are and whomever you are with. And bad things happen at times, just like in your previous life.

Have all your things stolen? Back home do you go to the police and know that they are rarely going to do anything about it and if items are found… most likely keep them? When you drive back home are you pulled over and accused of some bogus crime then forced to pay a fine on-the-spot… with no recourse for complaint?

Recently on a Facebook group specifically for those wanting to or who are currently living abroad with children a distraught mother living in Mexico posted this: “Feeling VERY conflicted tonight. Very recently, like last week, the area of Mexico we’re in was brought to the forefront of the drug war when 18 dismembered and decapitated bodies were found stuffed into minivans about 10 miles from here…”

The post goes on to ask for suggestions on what to do, which of course many offered as well as support. Is that common for you to experience back home? Do you know how you would react – or what you would do – if you found yourself in a similar situation in a foreign country? How would you protect your children? This woman’s children are temporarily not going to their bilingual school, while the parents decide what they should do. Move back to the U.S.? To another country or location?

There is a lot to think about when considering living abroad with children, beyond the hype. To help you in preparing when thinking of a move, read: Safety Tips – Traveling to South America with Children. The resources and tips are applicable to moving abroad anywhere.

Even if the adventure flops and the lifetime ‘never going to go back’ journey only lasts a year or two… does that make it a failure? Of course not. What you’ve attempted, and experienced for whatever length of time with your children will remain in your family lore forever and most likely be a source of inspiration for many adventures – and acts of courage – to follow.

 
About the Author

In 2007 after three years in Mexico it was time for new adventures. My son, our 22 pound Rat Terrier and I packed-up and traveled via ‘I’d rather not remember how many’ busses through Mexico, Central and South America to a new temporary home – Argentina.

Restless and wanting to branch out on my own rather than grub for travel writing assignments I began South America Living – to provide quality, in-depth information for those wanting to move to or travel extensively in South America, as we have been fortunate to do for the past four plus years.

We’ve zipped (me screaming with eyes closed… my son laughing) through treetops, surfed a few waves (Huanchaco, Peru), rode horseback down dusty desert trails (Tupiza, Bolivia), stood in awe at thundering spray (Iguazu Falls) and an endless horizon of salt (Salar de Uyuni), sailed high into the sky (paragliding in Canoa, Ecuador) as well as on water (whale watching in La Paloma, Uruguay) while meeting and making many new friends.

Come along on our journey while we try to help you plan yours and enjoy, Molly

Email: editor (@) southamericaliving.com

P.S. Don’t forget to join us on Facebook!     www.facebook.com/southamericaliving

Checking out the Atlantic Coast from Piriápolis, Ururguay

Piriápolis is an Atlantic coast beach resort that had its heyday years ago (1930′s), went into decline and now is staging a comeback. Popular during summertime, it is 105 km (65 miles) from capital city Montevideo and takes around 45 minutes by car or an hour via bus from the Tres Cruces Bus Terminal.

Where To Eat       Where To Stay

Shopping is mostly souvenirs, with a few upscale fashion shops. Piriápolis is extremely crowded from December through February but it is relatively quiet from April through December.

Many shops and restaurants close during the winter yet there are full-time residents and more and more expats relocating to the area. Sometimes Hotel Argentino (see below in Where to Stay section) shows documentary or ‘artsy’ films if you need a dose of big city culture.

Enter Here to Lose all Your Money! Lobby & Casino Inside Hotel Argentino.

Things to do in Piriápolis

• Explore the Beach and La Rambla. Francisco Piria, a student of metaphysics and master mason, designed Piriápolis in accordance with the principles of Alchemy and Kabbalah. Stroll along the Rambla, or enjoy the beach activities, and you sense the vibe immediately. Once you feel the energy of Piriápolis, the mystical and historic sites make sense.
• Visit Piria Castle. Piria constructed his home on the top of a hill, and named it Piria’s Castle. Statues of the Greek gods – each representing a type of metal used for alchemy, and a planet in the universe – embellish the pathway to his home. During construction, the builders embodied esoteric symbols within the bricks, and hung Templar flags from the towers. The castle’s upper floors were supposedly used for meditation and astral projection. Piria Castle is now a museum, open to the general public.
• Climb Cerro Pan de Azucar. Uruguay is not a mountainous country but Cerro Pan de Azucar (Sugarloaf Mountain in English) is one of its few exceptions. The mountain is home to Reserva de Flora y Fauna del Pan de Azúcar, a nature reserve for the local fauna and flora. Sugarloaf is also a popular mountain climbing and biking destination. Adventure activities such as ziplining are available.


The Gates of Castle Piria

• Cerro San Antonio. No, Piriápolis does not have a ski resort (there is no snow in Uruguay!) but there is a chairlift that takes you to the top of Cerro San Antonio (San Antonio Hill in English). At the top you will enjoy panoramic views of Piriápolis and can climb to the top of Templo San Antonio for an even better view.
• Hang-out at the Fountain of Venus. The Fountain of Venus in Piriápolis replicates a Greek temple that occupies the Villa Paravicini in Milan Italy. Eucalyptus surround the fountain, and a playground sits nearby.

If you need more glitz and glamour, affluent beach resort Punta del Este is about 20 minutes away. There is a movie theater in Punta del Este, as well as more upscale shopping and many restaurants.

Where to Stay in Piriápolis

Expensive
Name: Hotel Argentino Casino & Resort   Book Now
Address: Rambla de los Argentinos 2342
Website: www.argentinohotel.com.uy/   Even if you can’t afford the rates, at least visit the stained glass windows in the lobby of the Hotel Argentino. Built in 1930, this was one of Piria’s first developments in Piriápolis. The hotel has a spa, a casino and an all-inclusive system that includes three gourmet meals in their onsite restaurant.

Midrange
Name: Hotel Ricadi   Book Now
Address: Pasaje Superior Piria enter on corner of Suipacha & Junin
Website: www.hotelricadi.com   Hotel Colon is another one of Francisco Piria’s early masterpieces. This Tudor-style mansion occupies a prime spot along the Rambla. Stunning art nouveau decor and an old-fashioned sitting room with fireplace embellish its interior.

Note: The below listing - Hotel Rex - is really midrange as the Piriapolis Hostal closes from May to August.

Cheap
Name: Hotel Rex   Book Now
Address: Manuel Freire 968
Website: http://www.hotelrex.com.uy/   Colorful décor and a location one half block from the beach combined with indoor pool, gym and additional pampering such as massages.

Where to Eat in PPiriápolis

Expensive
Name: Salon Magdalena
Address: Inside Hotel Argentino (Rambla de los Argentinos 2342)
Website: www.argentinohotel.com.uy/hPagina.aspx?6   Stay at a cheap or midrange hotel, but splurge on dinner at Salon Magdalena! Located in the Hotel Argentino, award-winning chefs prepare an intriguing selection of international entrees.

Midrange
Name: Barlovento Taverna
Address: Promenade des Anglais esq. Vilardebó
Website: None. Barlovento Taverna, whose name means “windward tavern,” sits near the beach in Punta Fria. Known for its seafood dishes such as squid rings, shrimp croquettes and mussels Provencal, this lively venue features music and dancing in the evening.

Cheap
Name: Sal y Pimienta
Address:Tucumán y A. Sierra, Piriápolis
Website: None. Many Uruguayans claim Italian descent. The vast number of pizza and pasta restaurants verify this claim. The staff at Sal y Pimienta treat their guests to a diversity pastas, sauces, pizzas and fresh fish entrees.

Photographs by Lisa Mercer, all rights reserved.

by Molly McHugh, Editor/Publisher of South America Living.       About the Author

This is one of those ‘don’t do as I did’ type of help articles i.e. the stupid things a fellow travel writer did (no need to mention names…) when starting a travel website and is willing to share so you can avoid them.

Two years after starting South America Living I am still having to correct errors from misguided thinking. Because of my past tech and travel writing experience I was overly-confident I would ace the online travel website game and be pulling in 30k visitors in no time whilst pulling in $500 – $700 USD per month or more in profit.

What happened in reality was I learned (over an approximate two years time) how little I knew about what I was getting into and kept pulling in under 10k visitors while making $30 – $50 USD per month. I had little understanding how search engines work plus received bad advice off and on.

Let’s start you off right in your new travel blogging/website venture, by making sure you do not make the following “Top 3″ website development errors I made when starting my website business.

 
Mistake #1 – I actually went and searched subject headings to see what was already out there so I could be oh-so-clever and brainstorm something new and different, stealing all the traffic from those already ranking high up in the search results.

This is exactly what you do not want to do. Why? Because all it will do is cause your pages to be listed further down in the search results. I didn’t understand that those who were already ranking high were not only far from stupid but also much more experienced than I and had done their due diligence. They knew to research keywords using an online tool and then name the article using the words that were already ranking high for the subject matter, or to develop a new story idea. To say I had a lot to learn is an understatement.

Keyword research is critical to the success of your site. Not for every page or everything you post, but for finding areas of interest related to your blog subject that there is already an online audience for (i.e. folks searching for that material) as well as how to title and develop an article idea you came up with on your own.

A great article explaining the basics for beginners in addition to listing various online tools you can use is: SEOMOZ Keyword Research.

 
Mistake #2 – Not understanding how important it is to set-up Google analytics correctly from the start.

After my site was live for around a year I asked more experienced travel website owners on Tom Brosnahan’s Travel Website Owners List to look it over and give critical feedback. I was getting 6,000 or so pageviews a month and discouraged, though my other site metrics were good; under 10% bounce rate, 4 minutes on site, 4-5 pages read, etc.

It was all doggie doo. I did not realize I had two sets of analytics code on my WordPress website that were screwing up the results – the original code put in the template by the developer and from the Google Analyticator plug-in I had installed.

A fellow travel website owner, Stuart of Travelfish.org pointed it out in the thread and I passed the info on to my Web guy at the time but forgot about it shortly after.

A year or so later when consulting with Matt Kepnes aka “Nomadic Matt” and going over my stats he noticed the unusually low bounce rate and – thinking I was making the number up or lying – asked to view my Google analytics data.

Long story short, the original code in the template was finally removed, Google Analyticator plug-in deleted then re-installed and my stats started soaring, with the bounce rate changing to a more normal 30-50%. Bounce rate is not used by Google in its algorithms or ranking system but if yours is say, below 20% you may want to check your code and make sure you are drawing the stats properly.

 
Mistake #3 – Not spending enough time on social.

You don’t have to tweet ten times a day but you do need to make constant efforts at networking with fellow travel bloggers and at increasing your online ‘social presence’. Don’t have a Twitter account? Get one. Don’t have a Facebook page? Make one. Clueless about StumbleUpon, HootSuite or LinkedIn? Figure it out.

Besides making your online work time more fun, fellow travel bloggers can give opportunities for guest blog posts (to get a backlink to your site, that are crucial for SEO), like your facebook page so your fan numbers can keep inching up, help you problem-solve numerous issues and keep you in-the-loop with what’s going on outside of your own little Web box.

No one can be proficient in all ends of the business or keep up with every new trend, but a bunch of smart folks sharing information regularily can fight the good fight together for the benefit of all. A current group online you may want to join is Global Bloggers Network .

Lastly, be ready to figure out the latest and greatest new social online trend coming down the pike, and become an early adapter. That’s how you stay ahead of the game. If you don’t like to play it, it would be best to find a different sandbox to mash around in.

Being a professional travel blogger is far from easy, a lot of work for little pay and not for everyone. Yet some like myself couldn’t think of doing anything else at this point in time.

 
About the Author

In 2007 after three years in Mexico it was time for new adventures. My son, our 22 pound Rat Terrier and I packed-up and traveled via ‘I’d rather not remember how many’ busses through Mexico, Central and South America to a new temporary home – Argentina.

Restless and wanting to branch out on my own rather than grub for travel writing assignments I began South America Living – to provide quality, in-depth information for those wanting to move to or travel extensively in South America, as we have been fortunate to do for the past four plus years.

We’ve zipped (me screaming with eyes closed… my son laughing) through treetops, surfed a few waves (Huanchaco, Peru), rode horseback down dusty desert trails (Tupiza, Bolivia), stood in awe at thundering spray (Iguazu Falls) and an endless horizon of salt (Salar de Uyuni), sailed high into the sky (paragliding in Canoa, Ecuador) as well as on water (whale watching in La Paloma, Uruguay) while meeting and making many new friends.

Come along on our journey while we try to help you plan yours and enjoy, Molly

Email: editor (@) southamericaliving.com
P.S. Don’t forget to join us on Facebook!     www.facebook.com/southamericaliving

Picture Yourself at the Beach in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

When planning a trip to South America many travelers want the worry and hassle of organizing their adventure taken out of their hands. That’s what tour companies are for. Yes, it’s often more touristy – and expensive – than adventuring on your own with a backpack but very effective for seeing top attractions in a limited amount of time.

In addition, it is a very safe way to visit the continent. The majority of these folks know their business well and want satisfied customers, not emergency situations to deal with. Plus, it is always safer to travel in a group as opposed to solo. In addition, they provide travel insurance with packages, or at least advise on how to purchase for the duration of your trip.

When planning your trip know what the visa requirements are for the country you are visiting, and whether you have to pay a reciprocity fee!     Reciprocity Fees in South America: USA, Canada, Australia & UK

How to Choose a Tour Company

So where to go and how to choose a tour? Do your research. The below is a list of companies who provide this service but you should read carefully their terms and conditions, do a search for the company on Google or Bing to see if they have good customer reviews or a long list of complaints. You can also go into a travel agency in your home country to see what is on offer, and be able to arrange a trip face to face as opposed to online or over-the-phone.

Note: To search for tour companies who specialize in South America and are located in your home country do a search online like this: “tours to South America from — (enter your country of residence)”.

Tour Companies Specializing in South America Tours

• Holiday Tours – tours offered by an Australia based company with locations throughout the continent plus guaranteed “lowest price or you fly free” flights from Australia.
• Affordable Tours.com – not all the tours to South America are low-cost, but they do have a few that are very affordable such as an 8 day Ecuador & Amazon tour listed for $670 USD. Company is based in the U.S.
• Journey Latin America – figure out what type of trip you are looking for then check out their site. Offer expedition cruises, beach holidays, family holidays, off-the-beaten-track adventures, etc. all throughout South America. Company is based in the UK.
• G Adventures - has over 200 tours to choose from on the continent, with prices all over the map. Worth a look.
• Thomson Holidays – cheap holidays, cruises and organized trips to beach destinations in Brazil and Venezuela by Thomson, a UK-based company. They own the charter airline Thomson Airways.
• Viventura – this company specializes in South America (many of the above have tours throughout the world) and offers two main types: classic or comfort. They have a 15 day tour that includes Machu Picchu and the Galapagos for $2720 USD. Both destinations are very pricey, so is quite a deal.

Best Resources for Traveling Independently to South America

You are at the best online site! This website – South America Living – is only a year and a half old and growing leaps and bounds with full country-specific travel guides due out in the next few months.

We currently have online destination guides to over 35 locations – such as Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls, Colca Canyon, Rio de Janeiro, Lima, Santiago, Bariloche, Quito, and many more.

To receive regular updates about cheap places to travel or live, travel tips and special deals sign up for our monthly newsletter: South America Living Monthly Newsletter.

Photograph courtesy of Flight Centre, all rights reserved.

"Welcome to Montañita, Mon"

Oo, oo-oo-oo, oo-oo-oo, oo-oo-oo-oo-oo… Don’t worry… Be happy… Visiting Montañita soon? Start humming this little tune to get you in the vibe:

      Here’s a little song I wrote
      You might want to sing it note for note
      Don’t worry, be happy.
      In every life we have some trouble
      But when you worry you make it double
      Don’t worry, be happy.
      Don’t worry, be happy now.

View Photos     Where To Eat     Where To Stay

Party town of Ecuador, Montañita plays host to not only hoardes of fun-seeking backpackers (think PARTY hard, PARTY all night long kind of folks) from around the world, but also bus loads of Ecuadorian families from Guayaquil and elsewhere who can overtake a beach quicker than you can get “oo-oo-oo” out your mouth.

Your are humming in unison right now aren’t you? There is next to nil stress, if having a bad day you can let the fire blowers entertain you (most nights around 8-10 p.m. near Hola Ola restaurant) or wait until the “Magic Brownie” stand sets up shop (near Hotel Montañita). The town is 3 hours by bus from Guayaquil.

Surfers and “jewelry maker” street people types make up the bulk of folks who land here and don’t leave for a month or more (“The landlord say your rent is late… He may have to litigate… Don’t worry, be happy”) giving the town the ambiance of a Bob Marley (or Bobby Ferrin) concert that never wants to end. And there’s plenty of rasta T-shirts on sale to prove you partook in the festivities.

Surfers Get all the Hot Chicks

Ain’t got no cash, ain’t got no style
Ain’t got no gal to make you smile
Don’t worry, be happy.
‘Cause when you worry your face will frown
And that will bring everybody down
Don’t worry, be happy.

Looking for a party – and finding one – is overly-easy. Head to “Cocktail Avenue” (anyone can point you in the right direction…) after 11 p.m. and walk from bar to bar towards the beach ending at the upscale waterfront dance club & bar – Paradise Restaurant & Club. Or simply walk around town.

If you like Rock & Roll music, the Bier Garden is going to be your thing (view photo page). It opens around 9 p.m. and is on Avenida Primera just a block up from the waterfront.

Not the partying type and feeling left out by going to the beach, having a great time, eating a lovely dinner then in bed at your hotel or hostal around 11:00 p.m. or midnight (like most respectable adults such as myself)? No worries (and be happy)!

Just get up early, walk around town and you will get to see much of the action from the night before still hanging on, though folks looking a bit rougher for the wear. Visit one of the bakeries (see below in Cheap Eats) for a coffee and pastry.

Note: Prices are current as of March, 2012.

Things To Do in Montañita

• Surfing is popular with many shops to rent and take lessons. Towns nearby such as Olon (20 minutes away, good for beginners) and Ayampe (40 minutes by bus, bigger breaks) are good surfing spots as well where many go for the day then head back to town in the evening. More information here: Casa del Sol Surf Camp
• Learn Spanish at Montañita Spanish Language School or Marazul Spanish School. Both have private and group lessons as well as accomodation options.
• Get your thrills in the treetops trying flips instead of the bottom of a beer bottle… (though that can be fun) with Montañita Canopy for ziplining.
• Visit the “other world” (otro mundo in Spanish) below the sea with a scuba diving adventure by Otro Mundo Dive Center.
• Hop on a local bus ($2.50 USD, 1 hour) to Puerto Lopez early in the morning (by 7:00 a.m., tours start 9:30 a.m. daily) and visit Isla de la Plata ($25-30 USD, all day tour, food & drinks included) to snorkel, swim with sea turtles (sometimes), whale watch (June to September) and bird watch. You can organize a trip from Montañita but it will be double the cost. From bus station take a tuk tuk ($1.00 USD) to Turismar on the waterfront (next to Mar Azul Hostal); lowest prices in town and is at the port where boats leave from.

Cheap Monthly Rental Options in Montañita

The town seems to have ‘set a price’ for a bed in a hostal dorm or single room – $15-$20 USD per person. During high-season times (Christmas, New Years, Carnival) you will be lucky to find that price, much less a room. There are a few campgrounds that charge $3-$5 USD per night (near the bridge), but most folks want a bed. Two decent options for monthly rentals are Hostal & Cabanas Joalli and Hosteria Refugio.

Cabanas Joalli is cheaper, with $150 USD per month (one person) rustic cabanas with bath and outdoor private kitchen available (across the bridge in barrio El Tigrillo, up the road about three blocks, can´t miss it). They also have one of the cheapest hostals in town ($5 USD per person) with similar monthly rates. Facing the water head to the left end of town, one block up from the beach… colorful sign “Joalli”. The owner actually replies to emails: joalli2004 (@) yahoo.it.

Hosteria Refugio is much nicer, with lovely palm trees and lots of shade… when it is blistering hot and suffocating in town from all the concrete upon concrete buildings, this is where you want to be. There is a dorm at Hosteria Refugio (rates vary greatly, give discounts for extended stays) and also cheaper private rooms with bath and shared kitchen that go monthly for around $250 USD. It is located across the street from Cabanas Joalli . More information here: Hosteria Refugio.

Both options are great for groups with cabins that can accomodate 6 people or more. Cabanas Joalli usually get the surfer crowd at the cabanas and music-loving hippies at the hostal in town, Hosteria Refugio twenty and thirty-somethings on up with a bit more cash.

Cheap Eats in Montañita

Street food is a way of life here and plentiful. Great place to go after 7 p.m. is on Avenida Primra and Guideo Chiriboga streets (down from Hola Ola towards the water). There is a grill with chicken, beef or sausage served with rice, beans and salad for $2.00 USD and an outdoor rack of skewered lamb shaved thin to wrap in a pita pocket served with lettuce, tomato and extra sauce; for those who hear the word “gyro” and start to drool.

Other cheap eats in addition to the comedor listed below in the restaurant section are $1.50 USD hamburgers, hotdogs and fruit smoothies plus many cerviche stands open in the morning (what Ecuadorians on vacation seem to eat for breakfast!) and afternoon.

There are two bakeries (panaderias in Spanish) in town with cakes, pastries as well as fresh bread and sandwiches (ham/cheese rolls) to go with coffee you will be tempted to buy. The best and biggest is right at the highway on Vicente Roca Fuerte street (open from 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.) and the other – El Trigal – is on the same street but a few blocks down towards the waterfront, same opening hours. Both are good spots for an early cheap breakfast.

ATMs & Internet in Montañita

There are two international LINK ATMs in town, one right next to Hotel Montañita on Guido Chiriboga street. The other is just kitty corner at Guido Chiriboga and Segunda Avenida streets. They often run out of cash but are usually only down for a few hours at the most. Banco Bolivariano (at Hotel Montañita) can withdraw up to $1000 USD from a credit or bank debit card.

Internet is available throughout the town in three or four locations and most have working SKYPE and SKYPE headsets.

Where to Stay in Montañita

Expensive
Name: Residencia Punta Montañita   Book Now
Address: Camino al Santuario s/n (no number)
Website: Facebook Page Panoramic views, WiFi, restaurant and swimming pool. Spacious and airy feel, welcome gifts upon arrival.

Midrange
Name: Hotel Baja Montañita   Book Now
Address: Sector La Vía Punta Olón
Website: http://www.bajamontanita.ec/ Buffet breakfast, air conditioning and ceiling fans, lovely pool, steps from the beach.

Cheap

There are 4-5 hostals on every block, a mind-boggling number to choose from. You´d think the most expensive hostals would be found away from the beach but it is not so. One of the cheapest digs in town – El Centro del Mundo – is right on the waterfront off of Vicente Roca Fuerte street. They have rooms for $8 USD per person.

Look to the right and you see a line of others: Mochica Sumpa ($12 per person, no WiFi); Hostal Alebrijes ($15 USD per person, WiFi, private baths); Ocean View Hotel ($15 per person, no WiFi) and Hostal Las Palmeras ($12 USD per person, no WiFi). Plus a couple more. Take a short walk and take your pick!

Where to Eat in Montañita

Expensive
Name: Thai & Sushi
Address: Across the street from Hola Ola restaurant
Website: None. Sweet little spot with sushi and thai food, one of the pricer places in town but popular. Located where much of the action is, great for people watching.

Midrange
Name: Hola Ola
Address: 10 de Agosto and Calle Primera
Website: http://www.holaolacafe.com/ Center of the action location, fire blowers or other street entertainers put on a show right outside many nights, refreshing pool (that no one seems to use but is there if you need it), big screen T.V.s, bar grub (spicey chicken wings, hamburgers, salads, pasta, pizza) plus wraps, pancakes, waffles and seafood. Open 24 hours with the kitchen taking a break from 4 a.m. – 8 a.m.

Note: Another excellent midrange choice is Tiki Limbo with comfy couch seating and superb, huge hamburgers. Hungry for hummus? Head to Tiki Limbo a block from Hola Ola towards the beach on Guido Chiriboga street, open 9 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Cheap
Name: Comedor Solmar
Address: Vicente Roca Fuerta (main street off highway) and 15 de Mayo
Website: None. Set menu with soup, main course and drink for only $1.50 USD served from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. For more cheap eats read the section above.

Interactive Map of Montañita

Silly… don’t need a map in Montañita, you´ll find your way… Don’t Worry Be Happy!

Photographs by Molly & Blake McHugh, all rights reserved.

River in the Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest in Mindo

Mindo, Ecuador is a popular daytrip from Quito - only 2.5 hours away - and noted for its abundant natural beauty and the Mindo-Nambillo Cloud Forest. The area encompassing Mindo is one of the best birdwatching spots in Ecuador and in all of South America.

View Photos      Interactive Map
Where To Eat       Where To Stay

Around 400 bird species have been identified in Mindo alone, including many different types of hummingbirds, the Golden-Bellied Warbler, the Toucan Barbet and the Cock-of-the-Rock (national bird of Peru).

Mindo consistently ranks within the top three highest bird counts in the world, so it is no surprise that birding enthusiasts throughout the globe come here to experience the area’s diverse bird life. There are several excellent and knowledgeable birding guides in Mindo for hire, such as Marcelo Arias (email: marceloguideofbirds@yahoo.com). El Monte Sustainable Lodge also organizes birdwatching tours and has several qualified English-speaking guides.

Birdwatching is best very early in the morning, so if you are hung-ho about seeing as many birds as possible, expect to rise very early – preferrably before sunrise!

Note: Prices are current as of March, 2012. Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar as its currency; Money in Ecuador.

Things To Do in Mindo, Ecuador

• Take the tarabita (cable car in English) for $2 USD across the treetops and arrive at the entry point to the Santuario de Cascadas. The admission fee is $3 USD and you can hike along a dirt path through the gorgeous green landscapes of the cloud forest to visit six different waterfalls. The route to the waterfalls is about an hour long and it is possible to swim at the foot of Cascada Madre, last one you reach on the trail.
• One of the most popular activities in Mindo is tubing down the Río Mindo, and many tour operators in town offer such excursions for the bargain price of $6 per person, including equipment, transport and guides. During dry season, it is more of a leisurely float down the river, taking up to an hour to get from the launching point to ending spot. In wet season, the same distance is covered in 15-20 minutes and is much more of a heart-pumping experience, since the rapids are bigger and faster. Basically, six or more tubes are tied together to make one big raft and each person sits toward the middle of the raft, grabbing on to ropes for security. Two guides assist to navigate the rapids as the tied-up tubes spin down the river. A pick-up truck meets tubers at the point of disembarkment and drive them back to the tour operator’s office.
• Zipline through the cloud forest canopy on 12 or 13 different cables strung through the trees while trying tricks like “Batman” and “Mariposa” (Butterfly). Two major companies offer this: Mindo Ropes & Canopy and Mindo Canopy Adventure.
• Visit the mariposario (butterfly garden in English) at Hostería Mariposas de Mindo, which houses 25 different species of butterflies and shows the four stages of butterfly life, making it the largest butterfly display in Ecuador.
• Participate in the nightly “frog concert” at 6:30 p.m., which is less of a concert and more of an introduction to the diverse flora and fauna of the cloud forest. Organized through Mindo Lago lodge, the frog concert is an hour-long guided walk through the woods where participants can see some of the interesting nocturnal features of Mindo’s forests while of course, hear the chirping of various frog species. Afterwards, everyone is treated to a complimentary glass of wine at the lodge.

In 2008, an Ecuadorian-American couple bought a gorgeous plot of land in Mindo and started an artesanal chocolate company called Mindo Chocolate Makers . They also own and operate El Quetzal Restaurant and Hospedaje on the same property.

At 4 p.m. each day, owner José leads a chocolate tour at El Quetzal. He explains the history of cacao and chocolate, the story of his company and the process of making chocolate from bean to bar. He also gives a thorough tour of the large garden, where they grow coffee, ginger, aloe vera, stevia and vegetables as well as some guava trees. El Quetzal is one of only a few places in the world where you can see the entire process of chocolate-making in one place.

Mindo Chocolate Makers does everything here except for actually growing the cacao, which they buy from small organic farmers near Puerto Quito. On the tour, you can see the drying of the beans, the roasting of the beans, the breaking up of the beans, the winnowing of the cocoa nibs and their shells, the production of chocolate liquor and the refining of chocolate. After the tour, visitors get to sample 100% cacao and add sugar, chili pepper and ginger to adjust the chocolate to their taste, as well as one of its decadent brownies. The tour costs $5 USD and many products are for sale.

How to Get to Mindo from Quito

You can get a public bus to Mindo (2 1/2 hour trip) from Terminal Terrestre Norte in Quito, at La Ofelia, 35 minutes by taxi from the Mariscal tourist area. At the bus station you want to find the company “Flor de Valle” who has service to Mindo. The cost for a one-way ticket is under $3 USD.

Where to Stay in Mindo

Expensive
Name: Casa Divina Cloudforest Retreat
Address: 1.2 km Vía a la Cascada Nambillo
Website: http://www.mindocasadivina.com

Midrange
Name: Dragonfly Inn
Address: Corner of Avenida Quito and Sucre
Website: http://www.dragonflyinn-mindo.com

Cheap
Name: La Casa de Cecilia
Address: Walk along the western side of the Parque Central (Calle 9 de Octubre), located behind El Quetzal Restaurant right on River Canchupi
Website: None. One of the most popular budget backpacker places in town with several dorms ($6 USD) and private rooms with either shared ($7 USD) or private bathrooms ($8.50 USD). During the dry season, it is also possible to camp in the backyard for $2.50 USD if you bring your own tent. On-site restaurant and laid-back communal areas with hammocks.

Where to Eat in Mindo

Expensive
Name: El Séptimo Paraíso
Address: 2 Km from the “Y” of Mindo via Mindo
Website: http://www.septimoparaiso.com

Midrange
Name: El Quetzal
Address: On Calle 9 de Octubre (from Mindo’s central park, head north passing the restaurant/bar Fuera de Babylonia. It is in front of “Amigos de la Naturaleza”)
Website: elquetzaldemindo.com

Cheap
Name: Restaurant El Chef
Address: Avenida Quito and Sucre, across from Dragonfly Inn
Website: None. Typical fixed-price almuerzo (lunch in English) which includes soup, a main plate with a small piece of meat accompanied by rice and French fries, and a bottle of soda for $3 USD. The á la carte dishes come in large portions and range from fried trout to pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken breast with salad, rice and French fries, $4.50 USD) to its infamous lomo a la piedra (a hunk of beef cooked on a hot stone, $7.80 USD). Fresh fruit juices cost only $1 USD.

Interactive Map of Mindo

View Larger Map

Photograph by Jena Davison, all rights reserved.

Fun Things to do in Mindo? Take a Zip Line Tour!

Checking out the Cacao Beans on a Chocolate Making Tour in Mindo

Popular Hostal with Restaurant in Mindo - El Quetzal. The Owners Also Run Mindo Chocolate Makers.

House on the Riverbank in Mindo, Ecuador

The Town of Mindo on a Cloudy Day

Photographs by Jena Davison, all rights reserved.

Inside Parque Lage in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Rio de Janeiro is a city where the fun just doesn’t stop. From all-night beachside clubs, to trekking in the world’s largest urban forest, to marveling at some of the country’s more memorable landmarks, one thing you certainly won’t be in Rio is bored. But in case the options are overwhelming and you need somewhere to start, here are five things to do in and around Rio de Janeiro. Travel guide with more information such as where to sleep and eat is here: Travel Guide to Rio de Janeiro

Hit the Highlights

Rio de Janeiro is famous for many things but two postcard perfect spots are Christ the Redeemer Statue on top of Corcovado Mountain and the tippy top of Sugarloaf Mountain. Both offer panoramic views of the cityscape and are easily reached by public transportation. To avoid the tourist rush and sweltering heat of the mid-day sun, try to visit in the morning or late afternoon.

Christ the Redeemer is one of the largest statues of Jesus in the world and its largest Art Deco sculpture.

Tourists Enjoying the View at Christ Redeemer Statue

It recently won recognition as one of the “New 7 Wonders of the World” and is visited by taking a steep train ride to the top. Entrance tickets cost 43 real ($23 USD) in 2012.

Sugarloaf Mountain hasn’t won any awards, but offers a view that rivals if not outright beats those from the top of Corcovado. The two-tiered cable car ride to the top of the second peak is part of the attraction, and tickets and entrance cost 53 real ($28 USD) in 2012. Located along the coast and Guanabara Bay, visitors enjoy views of both the city and the sea. Try to visit at sunset if possible.

Favela Tour

Although travelers some feel uncomfortable with the idea of touring was is basically a slum, favela tours can be an enlightening experience for visitors while also benefiting the local community. Favelas are the crowded, low income, hillside districts that surround Rio. Tours typically include transportation, a guide, and an inside look at part of the city you probably otherwise would not have seen. A recommended company is Favela Tour, which uses part of its profits to support a community school, which is highlighted during the tour.

Go to the Park

Although Rio is a large city, it has plenty of park space. It is home to Tijuca Forest, the largest urban forest in the world, which offers a plethora of outdoor activity options such as hiking, rock climbing, and even hang gliding. Other outdoor options in Rio where you can cool off in the shade include Jardin Botanico and Parque Lage, both located behind Lagoa Rodrio de Freitas. Jardin Botanico charges a minimal entrance fee and can keep you occupied for hours as you stroll its wide and well maintained paths.

A Favela - Slum - in Rio de Janeiro

Parque Lage is a bit more bohemian with interesting sculptures hidden among wild tropical plants. The main building often hosts art shows. Both have cute cafes.

Head North to Buzios

If you want to check out the beaches beyond Copacabana and Ipanema, consider a weekend trip north to Buzios. Located three hours from Rio de Janeiro, Buzios is a beautiful peninsula surrounded by over 15 beaches. The area has a distinctly bourgeoisie feel and is filled with fancy restaurants, yacht clubs, and high-end boutiques. Buzios beaches on the northern side are best for swimming while those to the north are best for surfing.

Head South to Paraty

If cobblestone streets and picturesque islands are more to your liking, take a Costa Verde bus south to Paraty. Located along the coast, Paraty is surrounded by jungle beaches and isolated islands. The colonial center covers only few blocks but is lit up splendidly at night and is overflowing with charming restaurants that serve seafood and pastas, as well as boutique selling unique handmade souvenirs. Popular Paraty activities include island hopping tours (just walk toward the docks and someone is sure to approach you with an offer; you can also rent an entire boat if desired) and day trips to nearby beaches such as Trindade and Sono.

Laura Elise writes about South America travel and destinations for a company that specializes in South America vacations, including Brazil tours.

Photographs by Laura Elise, all rights reserved.

by Molly McHugh, Editor/Publisher of South America Living.       About the Author

Those with next to nil foreign language learning ability grey matter up top unite. Or at least read this blog post and know you´re not alone.

Sigh. Make that a big, heavy ´laden with disgruntlement´ sigh. Don´t like the disgruntlement part? Tough tushies!

Vamos Spanish Academy in Buenos Aires. For Information About Volunteering in Buenos Aires, Click on the Photo.

You would be too if you spent over 8 years in Latin America (Mexico, Guatemala, Panama, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Uruguay…) and still speak Spanish like a remedial-level 10 year old – not due to lack of effort.

I´ve diligently completed independent study working off a Spanish-English dictionary and private weekly lessons (Xela, Gualtemala) and played with the language in all types of situations such as enrolling my son in school, shopping, meeting native Spanish speakers and trying to converse, etc. Forced to ´play´ as I had no choice other than to try and communicate in Spanish. Did it help? Not much.

The material wasn´t really sinking in so in a fit of optimism (avoiding actually throwing one) I rationalized that I just needed time for the material to sink in. Yeah right and no such luck. A few years later I then took more private lessons (La Paloma, Uruguay) coupled with weekly ´Spanish-only´ nights with other expats trying to become fluent. Fun but not much success with the intended purpose.

New words stick here and there, my pronunciation of what I´ve already encrusted into hardened cranial nerve pathways improves off and on but that´s about it. It makes for being a great tourist and expat, but impossible to have an adult relationship (or conversation) with a Spanish-speaking native – something I have desired on more than a few occassions.

Time to admit more than a rudimentary grasp of the wrasp of mixed-up syllables and foreign-sounding nouns are out of my reach. Take a nap, then head to the beach.

Resources For Spanish Language Learning Online

For those who want to learn to speak Spanish, and hopefully have a bit more aptitude than I, here are a few online resources to help you get started:

Free Spanish Tutorials
All You Need to Start Learning Spanish
Learn Spanish Grammar, Language & Culture
Spanish Language Learning Guide for Students

I wish you the best of luck!

 
About the Author

In 2007 after three years in Mexico it was time for new adventures. My son, our 22 pound Rat Terrier and I packed-up and traveled via ‘I’d rather not remember how many’ busses through Mexico, Central and South America to a new temporary home – Argentina.

Restless and wanting to branch out on my own rather than grub for travel writing assignments I began South America Living – to provide quality, in-depth information for those wanting to move to or travel extensively in South America, as we have been fortunate to do for the past four plus years.

We’ve zipped (me screaming with eyes closed… my son laughing) through treetops, surfed a few waves (Huanchaco, Peru), rode horseback down dusty desert trails (Tupiza, Bolivia), stood in awe at thundering spray (Iguazu Falls) and an endless horizon of salt (Salar de Uyuni), sailed high into the sky (paragliding in Canoa, Ecuador) as well as on water (whale watching in La Paloma, Uruguay) while meeting and making many new friends.

Come along on our journey while we try to help you plan yours and enjoy, Molly

Email: editor (@) southamericaliving.com
P.S. Don’t forget to join us on Facebook!     www.facebook.com/southamericaliving

Photograph of Spanish students by Vamos Spanish Academy, all rights reserved.

Beginning the Descent back to Civilization on Day Three

Preparation

I picked up supplies in Coyhaique, the trading hub of the Carraterra Austral. I picked up food for the walk in a giant supermarket (shelves running and twisting into vanishing points. 80s music blaring over loudspeakers,) and a gas stove and cylinder. Camp fires aren’t permitted in the summer months because of the possibility of forest fire. The wind sweeps out an ember. The ember flares into a blaze that leaves gnarled death in its wake. No one wants to be that tourist.

I asked where are could find a map of the park at Coyhaique information kiosk, located in the central plaza. Without hesitation they issued me with a topographic map that described the walk in detail. Trails marked, distances between campsites, a description of each day of the multi-day walk, and photographs of the landscape. It was easy.

Getting to the Trailhead

No trouble hitchhiking to the trailhead. The hike starts at a dirt road called ´Los Horquetas’ that splits off from the main road. I ran up to the driver’s side of the car and jabbed my finger at the map where the turnoff was marked. The driver knew where it was. There’s not much else along the road. He frowned darkly and told me I’d get lost. But, unfazed, I leapt out at the junction, managing to remember my map and water bottle.

Day 1 in Cerro Castillo National Park

The valley sparkled enticingly, a wide skimming river ran smoothly, and in the distance rocky turrets loomed. It was a beautiful beginning, remote and inviting. It was a flat 13km to the campsite following the course of the river along a dirt road. A couple of times I had to remove my boots for river crossings. I wasn’t yet in the park proper and a huge mob of cows mooed from the fields that alternated with forest.

I reached a cow fence- the end of the dirt road, the beginning of the trail proper. Just inside were the park rangers hut and a first campsite. At the sound of my approaching footsteps the ranger slunk out of his hut, and here I registered and paid the entrance fee.

Note: The registration is for general administration purposes, not helicopter rescue. There’s no ‘checkout’ on the other side.

There was another campsite 40 minutes down the trail and I decided to press on. The woods were splintered and shifty by the ranger hut. There was no water, no river. I didn’t plan to sleep encrusted in sweat. It was a winning decision. Further along the trail converged with a white silver glacial river. It whirled and leaped; it charged down pure from the peaks. Rock faces sliced into the sky at steep angles, sides smooth and mighty. They flashed red pink against the pale clear sky. I splashed myself with water in the river which was icy but fresh, cooked dinner, and went to sleep.

Day 2 in Cerro Castillo National Park

I got up when I woke up. In the summer months in Patagonia, January and February, the days are very long. The sun doesn’t set before 10 p.m. I dedicate the extra hours to sleeping.

No campfire allowed, but the conscientious stacks of wood by the fireplace suggested otherwise. No wind, and I made a very small fire to cook my oatmeal on. Then I set off uphill, climbing through the forest, and soon the forest fell away to a rocks and scree and the climb over the pass. Little glacial streams were delicious. Toward the top of the pass a little, lively waterfall spluttered out of the cliff. The pass cradled a snow field and I trudged through. Either side the peaks were bleak and silent. It was like a vacuum. It was morbidly fascinating. I found a fully intact dragonfly that seemed to have died of cold. Maybe it was flying and just fell out of the air, the life frozen out of it.

The descent was a steep scree slope. I negotiated it not so daintily; I did not feel like a mountain goat, more like an inept surfer, the rocks bunching up and land sliding below me as I cursed. I landed twice on my ass despite intense concentration.

Behind me, a beautiful glacier descended from the ridge. It sagged over the edge. Trickles and streams dripped off it and ran down, forking and spluttering down the rock face like veins. At the bottom of the cliff the network of channels, birthed from the slumping ice mother above, joined into a single river that flowed torrentially down.

The woods received me warmly. I reached the next campsite. I submerged myself in another luscious ice river then sunned and dried off on a conveniently shaped boulder. From my campsite I could see Cerro Castillo, its jagged tooth turrets, its magnificence, not so much a castle as the fortress of an evil sorcerous. I watched the sudden contrast as the sun sunk. The river grew suddenly ghostly and steely. The forest became brooding. The moss on the bark condensed into dark shadow and grew suddenly sinister. I chased the shrinking light along the rocks, played some harmonica, ate and went to sleep. I hadn’t seen anyone all day.

Campfire at Night in Cerro Castillo National Park

Day 3 in Cerro Castillo National Park

This was the hardest day. It was marked as a paltry 5 km on the map but it took me a very long time. The path climbed up alongside the mountain peak. Soon the forest gave up its hold, then the shrubs, too, and the landscape became rocky. Tiny wily flowers poked out from between stones; mosses crept amongst the rocks. I searched for a long while for a way to cross a river without having to long jump. Then the path swerved right to the base of Cerro Castillo and the rock face soared up imposingly.

Presently I reached a mountain lake. It was a glassy white-blue, and calm, but it was cold there. I drank hot soup. The clouds twisted and tumbled over Cerro Castillo, none too menacing, but enough to add turbulence to the day.

I scrambled up boulders to join the trail. I spidered up, hand over foot, and then a precarious tiptoe over loose boulders to join the ridge.

I saw misty figures on the ridge. They presided over, looking down at me. I wondered how they vanished so fast. Maybe it was the keeper of the mountains. He dispersed into cloud; he scuttled into rocks. Later I discovered there is a steep trail from the village (itself called Cerro Castillo) straight up to the ridge. Day hikers can stretch and heave and poke their heads over the mighty mountain ridges, and then retreat back to the village.

I ascended over the peak. The mountaintop was covered in flat shards of stone, a scree wasteland. From there you could see all of Patagonia it seemed. Patagonia stretching out endlessly: the storm clouds of distant valleys, other weather patterns, the frail line of dirt road Carraterra Austral, and the tiny Villa Cerro Castillo huddled in the wilderness. This Patagonia was scoured, bony and knobbly. It looked like it had had glaciers dragged through it. It was an incredible view, comprehensive, like the view from an airplane.

From there on I played where’s wally (or waldo) to find the trail.

I followed the red and white sticks amongst the fog and boulders. The descent was steep; the scree loose. The wind battered and buffeted me, as if trying to blow me off the mountain. But I followed the sticks faithfully, scanning ahead, honing in, and made it down to the refuge of the forest. If a storm strikes up on the mountain you would not be able to keep track of the already mirage-like sticks. You would stagger blindly on the treacherous mountaintop and it could be disaster.

On the zig-zag down I lost the trail for a while. After fighting through brush, falling in thorns and getting generally beat up (but footprints in the dust suggested others had done the same) I arrived at the campsite. At the campsite there were 3 boys from Chile and they shared mate (national drink of Chile, similar to green tea).

Day 4 in Cerro Castillo National Park

I left my camp intact and walked up to another glacial lake. This one can be reached as a day trek from the village. The waterwas emerald andstirred under white snow and flashing ice. It was beautiful and terrible. The place bristled with angry powerful sweeps of wind and rain, defiant, it will never be tamed.

On my return it began to rain. I got in my sleeping bag under my tarp and made myself warm food. But the campsite was cleared of trees; the bald dirt couldn’t absorb the water. A river began to flow across my camp. I mopped up the mess and tried to dam the river with logs.

It was nearly dark, and I was saved by a man who showed me how to prop up a little dirt wall to divert the flow of the river down the slope. So I learnt that it is more effective to divert a river by coaxing and persuading rather than blockading it outright. Also, to camp at the top of a slope where the earth has been stripped bare.

I think the problem would have been the same with a tent. The water would have built up against the wall and eventually seeped through. Otherwise, plastic duct-taped Wal-Mart tarp suited me fine this trip and was effective against water from above. But I’m not sure how it would have fared if the Patagonia wind really picked up, throwing punches from all directions, though the campsites were always sheltered in the forest.

The next morning I descended to town and checked into a hospedaje where I had a shower.

Trip Summary

It was a beautiful walk. It was well-marked, and hardly anyone on the trail. But I had been lucky with the weather. The next days in town wind raged and rain sleeted down. When finally the clouds alighted from the tops of mountains the peaks were blanketed thickly with white, as if baptized or kissed by the great snow monster in the sky.

Photographs by Emilie Dannenberg, all rights reserved.